I recently tried out a Sigma 85mm 1.4 for sports photography. Sigma’s new Art series lens has certainly been getting some positive press in other areas so I’d thought I’d try it out for sports photography. I shot some high school basketball games with it to test the autofocus, sharpness, and vignetting. All-in-all, the Sigma performed very well. I tested the lens on a Canon 1DX Mark II at the Denver Coliseum, a moderately well-lit venue.
Autofocus
Perhaps the most important element for sports photography is autofocus. A lens has to be capable of fast and consistent autofocus. The Sigma definitely has one of these 2 traits and isn’t too bad on the other front. Its autofocus is very fast. In fact, it is faster than a Canon 70-200 2.8 L! The the lens isn’t quite as accurate as I’d like, but consistency wasn’t a major factor either. For example, out of 30 shots I might have 3 that are out of focus with the 70-200 2.8 L but the Sigma would get more like 7-8 out of focus over that same stretch. While 75% is still a good hit rate, it’s not in the league of the top Canon lenses for sure.
Sharpness
As far as sharpness goes, the Sigma 85 1.4 is stunning. I would say the lens is razor sharp at most apertures except for under f2.0. This is truly extraordinary performance from an 85mm lens.
Drawbacks
Well, everything good in life has a price and weight is the price you will pay for the high performance of this lens. The Sigma weighs in at 40 oz. If you think of it as a replacement for a 70-200 2.8, the weight won’t bother you so much. But if you’re used to lightweight primes, the size of this lens will probably bug you a lot. The narrow depth of field at wide apertures is also a drawback. I am not one to drool over shots taken at f1.4 with completely blurred backgrounds. In addition to the background being blurred, so is much of the subject at this aperture. This was no different for sports. The extremely narrow depth of field combined with some issues of autofocus inaccuracy makes this lens virtually unusable for moving subjects below f2.0 unless you’re willing to put up with a lot of images going in the trash bin.
Recommendation
At apertures like f2.5 and 2.8, I really loved this lens for basketball. Having an extra stop of light when you need it like in poorly lit high school gyms is one reason to highly recommend this lens for some types of sports photography. And of course, this lens just cannot be beat for portraits. If you are in need of an 85mm lens, look no further than the Sigma 85mm f1.4 Art.
I recently rented a Canon 5D Mark IV and and a Nikon D500 to test which one would be the better camera for my purposes. The focus of my review is use for sports photography. I currently use a Canon 5D III for sports. The camera is adequate but I find myself wishing it had faster and more accurate focusing on a number of occasions and 6fps is also a little slow for sports. In the past, I have also tried a Canon 7D MKII but found it to be too inaccurate for serious sports photojournalism.
Test Parameters
I shot a high school football game, a college football game, and a high school softball tournament with both cameras. I paired the Nikon with a 70-200 2.8 II lens to get an equivalent focal length compared to my Canon with a 300 2.8 IS lens (yes, if I really wanted to be perfect I would’ve used a 200 2.0 to give me the same effective depth of field). I also used a 1.4x teleconverter on both cameras paired with the above lenses. For the high school game, I was shooting at ISO 8000, f 2.8 at 1/800 second. For the college game, the lighting was better and I was able to shoot at ISO 3200, f 3.2 at 1/1000th. I turned off high ISO noise reduction on both cameras and used minimal sharpening on both. I sharpened the images additionally in Lightroom using the same setting for each.
Ergonomics and Handling
The Canon won the handling battle in my mind. I just like the Canon layout better. The lens turns the right way, the buttons are laid out better, and the control dial is quicker and easier to use than the push controller on the Nikon. Both menu systems are easy to navigate but he menus are more intuitive to navigate through on the Canon. Yes, I have used Canon cameras since 1998 and that is what I am used to, but I think the system just works better and is easier to learn overall. The Nikon requires button turing to access some features and I think the small buttons on the Canon are able to access more information quicker. However, for those used to Nikon cameras these complaints would not be an issue.
Both cameras fell great in the hand. I think the new Canon’s grip fits like a glove. It is a comfortable camera to hold and the Nikon is no slouch in this regard.
Build Quality
The Canon feels heftier to me and seems like it would stand up to most knocking around a professional would give it. The Nikon is also well built but the buttons and controls didn’t seem quite as robust as they are on the Canon.
Screens
The new Canon touch screen is amazing. IT is bright and easy to see, even in bright light. Flipping through photos on the back works much like a smart phone–simply swipe or spread to enlarge the view. Ingenious! This is my most favorite upgrade on the new Canon body.
The Nikon screen also works in much this manner and allows quick review of files. I give the reoslution edge to Canon, however.
Viewfinder
Canon seems to have stuffed whatever information you want or need into the viewfinder readout. IT was easy to read.
The Nikon finder is really bright and crisp for a crop sensor camera. I could;t tell I was using one in fact. This viewfinder is light years ahead of what Canon used to put in 20Ds and such.
Shutter
The Canon Mark IV shutter is amazingly quiet compared to the Mark III. The Nikon shutter sound is more reassuringly metallic but not as loud as the Canon Mark III, either. If working in quiet areas is part of your daily routine, then the Canon is the way to go. Golf tournaments and weddings require minimal disruption from a camera so the Canon would be the way to go here.
The Canon shutter is rated at 150,000 cycles and the Nikon is rated at 200,000.
Autofocus
I had high hopes for the Mark IV on the autofocus front. I was hoping that Canon had finally put a capable autofocus system in a non 1 series digital camera. The Mark IV comes closer to this goal, but the system is still not perfect. The acquisition speed is faster than with the Mark III, but it is not a huge difference. Both cameras still struggle somewhat with teleconverters attached. Focus tracking is also improved on the Mark IV, but the camera still will come off an object and hunt a little, even after the target is acquired.
In contrast, the Nikon does not let you down. Hold the back focus button down, and the focus stays on your target almost without fail. Yes, like all autofocus systems, the camera with switch targets occasionally if an interfering player comes in the field of view, but usually the Nikon got focus right on almost every frame. This is an incredible feat for a $2,000 crop sensor body (by contrast, the autofocus in the Canon 7D MK II seems to be always a little inconsistent).
The other feature of the Nikon that I liked is the autofocus-on button is large and raised so it is easier to hit with your thumb than the Canon. Just like the Mark III, the AFE button is too close to the autofocus-on button and I would occasionally mistakenly hit it instead of the autofocus button.
Frame Rate
The Canon is rated at 7 FPS and seemed noticeably slower than the Nikon which is rated at a higher 10 FPS. Canon messed up here. Had they gone to a faster frame rate, this would be a superb all around camera. As it stands, 7 FPS is still a little slow for sports photography.
High ISO Noise
No complaints with either camera in this regard. The Canon 5D Mark III was good at high ISOs and the Mark IV is even better. The grain pattern is less pronounced and I got very good files at ISO 8000 that I could apply minimal noise reduction to in Lightroom. Surprisingly, the Nikon files looked almost as good. Some detail was lost at ISO 8000 but not enough to render the files degraded or compromised. The Canon, as you would expect from a full-frame camera, wins this battle but the differences were not that pronounced. Again, for a crop sensor the Nikon performed very well indeed.
Canon 5D MKIV ISO 8000Nikon D500 ISO 8000!00% crop Canon100% crop Nikon
Image Quality
The Canon has more resolution (but lower pixel density due to the cropped sensor of the Nikon) and the files are obviously amenable to bigger cropping. Both produce nice, contrasty files. Both produce good flesh tones. I would say the Nikon produces jpegs which have more green to them which can be seen in the football shots in particular.
The Nikon wins in frame rate and autofocus speed so is probably a better choice for sports photography with one caveat: the Canon produces cleaner high ISO shots so is probably a better choice for those working consistently in low light environments. The Nikon produces good results up to about ISO 4000 and still produces decent images above that with some visible noise. The Canon images are really clean even at ISO 8000.
The Canon holds its own in terms of autofocus and frames per second and does perfom better than its predecessor in almost every category, just not in a revolutionary way.
So I would not hesitate to use either camera for some professional sports work although the D5 and 1DX MKII are still the obvious choices for the working pro.
Disclaimer: I rented the cameras on my own dime and this review is one man’s opinion on the cameras and is not intended as an endorsement for either brand.
I tried out the Olympus 300mm f4 lens at the Denver Zoo this weekend. The lens looks and feels like a 300mm f4 for full frame cameras but provides a field of view equivalent to a 600mm lens due to the micro 4/3 sensor size in the Olympus. The lens is, in a word, impressive. I had no issues handholding the lens due to the image stabilization built in to the lens as well as the in body stabilization provided by the EM1 I tried it out on. The end result–a lightweight combination that makes wildlife photography much more convenient. Normally, a photographer would be required to carry a 2 pound body and a 7 pound lens along with a heavy duty tripod and gimbal head. Not with the Olympus. I had no issue walking around the zoo with this set up. Using the teleconverter in conjunction with the lens I had the equivalent of an 860mm f5.6 lens!
Autofocus
The autofocus of the lens seemed quick and response. However, the one limitation of this setup is the camera. The EM1 simply doesn’t autofocus precise or fast enough to keep up with fast moving people or objects. The camera was also fooled by objects in front of or in back of an object like grass or fencing. Word has it that Olympus is working on an updated version of the EM1 that will address some of these autofocus issues, but we shall see. If it can develop an autofocus system capable of tracking wildlife, this camera and lens combination will definitely find itself in the bags of many more pros who shoot sports and wildlife. The lens is that good.
Image Quality
The Olympus 300 f4 lens produces great photos. It even focuses to a relatively close five feet which allows it to take some nice close ups such as flowers. I did not detect any major flaws with this lens during my time testing it. It produces sharp, contrasty images even shot into the sun. This lens is one of the best telephoto lenses on the market. Period.
OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA
I had a chance to try out a new Nikon D500 camera at the Denver Zoo on Saturday. The camera boasts some major improvements over its predecessor the Nikon D300, including 10 fps continuous shooting, a 20.2 MP sensor, and a greatly improved 154 point autofocus system. My overall impression of the camera is that it is capable of taking pictures that rival full frame in quality, especially from a high ISO noise perspective.
For the test, I coupled the camera with a Nikkor 300 f4 PF ED VR lens. This made for a lightweight yet relatively powerful telephoto combination for animal photos. I put the camera through a whirlwind of tests including indoors at Bird World.
Autofocus
The new autofocus system is much hyped. And for the most part it delivered during my test. I used continuous autofocus with a 4 point zone. The autofocus responded well in most situations but had trouble tracking at closer distances. In particular, I tried to shoot my son doing a standing broad jump, but the camera couldn’t keep up in this situation. It also had some trouble with birds in the relatively close quarters of Bird World. I would want to do more testing and pair it with a 70-200 2.8 or 300 2.8 lens for more precise testing. Ultimately, I would want to try it out at some sporting events and see how it handles erratic moving subjects. My sense is that this camera won;t live up to the performance of its big brother the D5 but will still be quite good.
Image Quality
The Nikon D500 provides a big step up in image quality. It lacks an AA filter so images are very crisp and don’t suffer form the slight blurring an AA filter creates. The images are contrasty and punchy straight out of the camera. More impressive is the noise or lack thereof. You’d be hard pressed to tell an image shot at ISO 6400 came from a 1.5 crop DX sensor. This was quite an achievement. This shot inside Bird World was taken at ISO 16000!
The picture of the Lorikeet below shows the crisp color and detail this camera is capable of, even at ISO 2000.
Here is a photo of an iris to examine fine detail in the beard.
Ergonomics
The camera fits very well in my large hands. I am used to Canon so some of the controls and motions are backwards from what I am used to, however. Overall, I was able to figure out most functions relatively easily. The buttons are well-labeled and laid out. The one thing I wish was easier to access was focus mode. It wasn’t obvious how to change between continuous and single shot and then the various other modes like zone focus or tracking.
Metering and Dynamic Range
The metering in this camera was okay. The camera underexposed some shots in the shadows. I had also heard so much about the dynamic range of Nikon and Sony sensors as compared to Canon. I was underwhelmed in this regard. This shot of a Cassowary shows what I am taking about. Some areas of the beak are blown out while some areas like the eyeball are quite dark. I was able to pull some detail back in Lightroom.
Overall, I thought the D500 looks to be an amazing camera for the price but will require further testing to see if it can be used reliably for sports photojournalism.
I recently rented a Canon 16-35 f/4 IS lens for my trip to Coyote Buttes in southern Utah. Since I knew I would be shooting swirling rock and large canyons, a 16mm is a necessity in this type of environment for good landscape photographs. I discounted a number of other options. The 16-35 II f/2.8 does not have a stellar reputation for sharpness. The Tokina 16-28 f/2.8 is really sharp but also has significant issues with CA. The 14mm f 2.8 would have only usable for some shots. I would have needed a different lens for many other shots. The same applied to the 17mm TSE. It’s a good lens but not very flexible. The Zeiss 15mm is considered the sharpest lens of the bunch but again I would be limited in use. The 16-35 f/4 seemed like the best of the options for what I was going to be shooting.
After using the lens for a week, I have to say I liked the lens a lot. It is is significantly lighter and easier to hold than a 24-70 f/2.8. It balances really well on the camera (in this case, a 5D MKIII) and the IS certainly comes in handy in certain situations. The 16-35 f/4 delivers very sharp pictures. I had very good sharpness except for the extreme corners at 16mm. I had no issues getting sharp images at 1/30 and 1/60 second. I used a tripod for images below that level.
I also tried out the lens on a couple of astrophotography shots. It has a lot less coma (lens aberration that elongates stars in the corners) than my 24-70 2.8. While the 16-35 is still not perfect in this regard, it at least produces a usable photo. I’d like to do further testing against one of the Rokinon lenses which are supposed to be much better in this regard in comparison to most of their Canon counterparts. The downside of this lens for astrophotography, is of course, its maximum aperture of f4. This means that to utilize the 25 second shutter speed rule to prevent star trails with this lens at 20mm or so, you will have to use ISO 6400.
The one downside I noted is that lens hunted a lot to focus on fine detail such as lines in the rock at close distances. This could of been due to a couple of things: my rental lens was not up to snuff or the rock lines didn’t provide enough contrast to focus on. I didn’t have any issue focusing on larger objects like trees or mountains so again, I will have to do more testing to see what was causing this phenomenon.
Overall, I really like this lens and would consider adding it to my bag if I end up needing an ultra wide zoom on a regular basis.
I recently ordered a pair of Dynalite Baja B4 strobes for my sports work after seeing a write up on sportsshooter.com. I photograph a lot of high school events, and the dim conditions require flash. One problem with high school gyms, however, is that power outlets are often few and far between. This means that traditional strobes requiring AC outlets are problematic to use. In the past, I have used either Quantum flashes or Canon 600 EXRT’s mounted to gym railings to illuminate one half the court. I had limited success with theses flashes. Small strobes don’t pack a lot of power and their recycle times can be very slow. I bought lithium battery packs to reduce the recycle time but even then, results were mixed.
So when Dynalite announced their new battery-popowered strobe, I was intrigued. The Baja B4 units are feature-packed for the price. A two strobe kit can be purchased which comes with case (a large padded shoulder bag), remotes, and a transmitter. The strobe itself is 400 W/S which is plenty of power for most high school gyms. It has a 7 stop power mode or a T mode. T mode has slightly reduced power at each setting but is supposed to have much reduced recycle time, and more importantly, much shorter flash durations. The unit also has a C-mode for stroboscopic flash which can fire 5, 10, or 15 flash bursts. The Baja B4 lights have the same mounting configuration for accessories as Bowens S mount, so many standard reflectors and speed rings will fit the flashes. I also purchased 2 Dynalite telephoto reflectors to focus the light better (These are quite large and don’t fit in the supplied Tenba case).
I set up the Dynalites on the gym railings using Superclamps and Manfrotto extension arms. I was a little worried about the sturdiness of this setup but it did hold the lights to the railings without issue. I did attach a safety cable to the set up.
I shot the game using T-mode on T4 and T3 settings (I preferred T4 since the power output was greater). Flash recycle time seemed to be around 1.5 seconds. The flash duration was also short enough to stop the action on most shots. The transmitter seemed to work well, although I noticed if I didn’t fire a shot for a minute or two, I would occasionally miss the first shot of my next sequence. There may be a power off setting I am unaware of, so I will have to troubleshoot this. The channel setting on the remote and receivers is a manual/analog dial so I had to be sure this wash;t bumped between setups. Otherwise, the system worked very well.
I measured the recycle time of the flashes rather unscientifically using a stop watch. Here are the times I measured in each of the 7 T modes.
I purchased a Canon 7D MKII, hoping that it would be the camera that I had dreamed the original 7D would be. In other words, a smaller, more affordable body usable for sports photography. The 7DII is an improvement on the original, but ultimately I found it suffered from some of the same flaws that led me to dismiss the 1st version. By way of background, I am an all-purpose photographer. I shoot portraits, weddings, sports, and nature. I bought the 7D MKII to use primarily for sports and wildlife photography. The advanced autofocus system, 10 FPS motor drive, weather sealing, and strong build quality led me to hope this camera would fill a niche. And it almost does. Unfortunately, I either got a body that needed some adjustment or Canon released a camera that wasn’t quite ready for prime time. There’s a lot to like about the 7d MKII, but I couldn’t justify keeping it. In time, maybe I will feel differently as RAW processors become available and AFMA software such as Reican Focal come out with updates for the body.
For this test, I mated the camera to my 70-200 2.8 II lens. I used the 7D MKII at a volleyball tournament to test out the autofocus and performance of the camera. I also shot a few landscape shots to assess image sharpness and dynamic range. Here are some of my conclusions.
Build Quality and Handling
First, I have to say this is a well-made camera. It feels hefty and solidly made. Gone are the days of prosumer digital SLR cameras that felt like they would break just by holding them in your hand. The controls are laid out very well and the buttons are intuitive. Anyone who has used a 5D will feel right at home. The camera is weather sealed robustly. The only thing that worried me is that if I dropped the camera, the built-in flash would be the weak point. Otherwise, this camera feels like a pro body. I did not get a chance to use the new controller on the back to select autofocus points, however.
Autofocus
This camera has a very similar autofocus system to the 5D MKII and the 1DX. The autofocus menus and modes are almost identical to these cameras. It has the extra processing chip, a la the 1DX, to allow for iTR metering and assist with autofocus. The autofocus seems very fast and crisp. I had very few totally out of focus images using the 70-200 2.8 II. The problem came when I zoomed in and critically assessed the sharpness of the images. Many were slightly out of focus. This occurred even on almost stationary subjects like players serving. I often had hands or balls in focus instead of the area where the center autofocus point was aimed at–the head and torso. Here are a couple of examples. The first shot is a small size jpeg of the whole image while the second shot is a 100% crop of the full size image showing the area of interest.
Here, the camera has gotten the ball in perfect focus, but it is in the top of the frame. The center point was aimed at the player’s head and torso.
In this image, again the camera seems to have just missed its mark. The very bottom of the player is in focus while the top is out.
This ‘m Here, I’m using a 400 f4 DO at f4. The player is standing still but image is slightly soft. This one is actually probably good enough to print, but it is still annoying to know it is not perfectly sharp on a stationary object.
Using the 400 f4 seemed to reduce the speed of the autofocus noticeably. Losing the one stop of light really seemed to diminish the autofocus performance. Autofocus performance without a 600 EX RT attached was also less than stellar in the dark conditions of a high school stadium. This may have contributed to focusing issues as well.
High ISO
The camera produces slightly noisy files at ISOs above 800. By the time you get to 6400, I wouldn’t use the camera at settings 6400 and higher without significant noise reduction being applied. Unfortunately, since the file is not detail rich to begin with, this really muddles the files. I applied very conservative noise reduction to the ISO 3200 files and it produced adequate results. But with a full frame camera like the 5D MKMII, this is not even necessary until ISO 6400.
Image Quality
In addition to autofocus, I also came away with the impression that image quality is still lacking in Canon APS-C sensors. In comparison to a Sony file or a Sigma DP Merrill, Canon sensors are lackluster when it comes to sharpness, and in particular, dynamic range. The images below show dark shadows and blown out highlights. In order to get a good landscape shot, you would have to use bracketed exposures and then combine them in a program like Photomatix to capture all the detail out of a scene. This isn’t such a big deal in sports photography, but it really precludes using this camera for landscape or detail work. I won’t give a conclusive finding on image quality of the 7D MKII, however, until RAW converters come out. These are in camera jpegs. But just eyeballing, I would say Canon has a ways to go in this respect. The IQ is definitely better than the original 7D, but not significantly.
I’ve owned a Sigma DP2 Merrill for about a year now. I was so impressed with the image quality that I jumped at the chance to grab its bigger brother, the DP3 Merrill, when they went on sale recently. I had a chance to try out the DP3 during a recent visit to Rocky Mountain National Park. The camera layout is much the same as the other two Merrill compacts. A couple of cosmetic changes have been made. The lens cap is a better pinch design and of course the camera is physically bigger due to the longer focal length (75mm equivalent vs 45mm). The camera still takes forever to write a RAW file but its autofocus does seem a bit quicker. The camera can focus much closer than the DP2 to allow for macro closeups. Image quality is again stellar on the DP3. Color correction is a little tricky in the Sigma software but can easily be done in post using Lightroom or Photoshop.
I tried out several subjects on my trip to Estes Park. I shot an old barn in Longmont on the way up.
I then hiked to Dream Lake in the park. Clouds obscured the sunrise but interesting patterns were everywhere in the ice and snow. The wind was howling, too! I walked around Bear Lake and found some interesting ice flows. Finally, I hiked to Alberta Falls. Not much to look at in the winter, but there were some cool animal tracks in the snow.
I recently had the opportunity to use a Phase One IQ160 and Phase DF+ camera system. I wanted to get an idea of how the 60 megapixel files would compare to other cameras on the market so I also worked with a Canon 5D Mark III, a Nikon D800, a Sigma DP2 Merrill, and a Fuji XE-1. Not surprisingly, the Phase One back came out on top with regard to image quality and dynamic range. What might surprise you is what camera came in second. The small, compact Sigma DP2 Merrill produced dizzingly sharp files with great color rendition and saturation. These two cameras produced better looking images than the other three in the field. The Sigma’s dynamic range is more limited, however. The Nikon and Canon cameras ranked third and fourth respectively with the Fuji bringing up the rear. Not that that is a bad spot to be. The Fuji has a APS-C sensor compared to 35mm full frame sensors in the Canon and Nikon. No camera in this unscientific test produced bad images. I would rate all the images as being quite respectable in terms of sharpness and overall quality. All of the cameras produced usable files.
The overriding factor in doing this test was to see what advantages users of medium format digital backs have over the rest of us who have relied on 35mm digital sensors for the past decade. The answer is quite a lot. Back in the day, wedding photographers and other people who needed higher quality images relied on medium format film as the gold standard. When digital cameras came into the mainstream a decade ago, most photographers abandoned medium format film in favor of the ease of use of digital technology. When medium format digital backs came into being, most of us did not make step up due to the high cost. Unfortunately, we may have sacrificed our standards to some degree. For the past decade, the fine detail in wedding dresses, landscapes, and architecture has largely been rendered as blobs by 35mm sensors. Yet we as photographers did not complain since our clients had largely ignored the loss of quality in return for the convenience and immediate gratification digital sensors could provide.
Medium format digital backs have changed that equation recently, however. Pictures are rendered in stunning detail and the dynamic range of the sensors is unparalleled. The fine detail that is capable of being captured is truly stunning. Compared side by side, the clarity and sharpness of the files is readily apparent. The good news is that all the cameras produced good to very good images.
To conduct the test, I photographed Estes Park and Rocky Mountain National Park, the Denver Botanic Gardens, and also shot models in a wedding fashion shoot in studio. I was able to check out a Phase One DF+ camera and IQ160 back along with a 28mm, 55mm, 80mm, 110mm, and 75-150 zoom. I used a Nikon D800 with a 24-70m zoom, a Canon 5DMKII with a 24-70mm zoom, a 70-200 2.8 IS II, and a 24mm TSE II. I used a Fuji XE-1 with the 18-55mm zoom and a Sigma DP2. Since the Sigma has a fixed 30mm (45mm equivalent) lens, I tried to shoot a number of pictures as close to 45mm as I could on all the cameras. I used Capture One 7.0 to convert RAW files except for the Sigma. Sigma Photo Pro must still be used to convert the RAW files. I then enlarged several of the photos on screen and compared them side by side. I then cropped the photos and saved the files seen below.
Crop of images shot with Phase One 645 DF+ and IQ160
Crop of images shot on Canon 5D MKIII
Crop of images shot on Nikon D800
Crop of images shot on Sigma DP-2 Merrill
Crop of images shot on Fuji XE-1
First, my impressions of the Phase system were mostly positive. Anyone who has used a Mamiya 645 system will find the controls very familiar. Phase acquired Mamiya several years ago and the Phase body is largely a rebranded Mamiya 645AF II or III. There have been minor improvements to the controls and autofocus, but it is largely the same camera. This is both good and bad. It is easy to use but autofocus remains an on and off proposition. I found myself reverting to manual focus on several occasions because the camera hunted to focus. It also missed focus on a few shots (front or back focus) when I left it in autofocus. This is not ideal since I was shooting in a studio. Phase has promised a completely revised body in the near future so hopefully this situation is temporary. The set up time of the 645 system is also quite long. It takes approximately 10 seconds for the back to power up and be ready to shoot. This threw off my timing on more than one occasion. I was ready to shoot but the camera wasn’t. Once I figured out it was better to leave the camera on and not worry about battery life, this improved quite significantly. I didn’t misfire on nearly as many shots. The back takes just over a second to get ready between shots so it is not a device for rapid fire capture. In comparison to a Canon 1DX, it is a tortoise to Canon’s hare. But this camera simply isn’t designed to handle all shooting situations. This minor delay didn’t prove to be an issue in the studio setting or outside taking landscapes. If you need to bracket exposures for HDR or take pictures of moving subjects, the slow recycle time could become more of an issue.
The IQ back itself is very easy to use. At first, I thought I would be thrown off by the lack of symbols on the back. It has just four unlabeled buttons. But navigating through the menus is quite simple and I got used to the blank button interface quickly. The one thing I couldn’t figure out was how to use live view on my technical camera.
Editing RAW files has to be done in Phase One’s Capture One. Its layout is similar to Lightroom and the program is quite powerful. A number of edits can be made to files before exporting. I found myself lost on more than one occasion in using it at first but eventually I became familiar with the basic controls. A big thanks goes to Brian Muntz of Phase One for helping me through some of the finer points of the program. The nice thing about Capture One is that any number of files form other camera brands can also be edited in Capture One. The end results were very good. I found the resulting files to look just as good if not better than those produced in Lightroom.
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I recently had the opportunity to check out a Canon 1DX for a week. I shot a couple of college basketball games with it and photographed some waterfowl at wildlife areas. In short, it’s a very good camera. Here are my basic conclusions.
1. Handling and operations: This camera feels great in your hand , albeit somewhat heavy. The camera controls are laid out intuitively and anyone used to a 1D series will be be right at home. Most necessary controls are selectable via buttons, with a couple of notable exceptions. The older 1D cameras could change the picture quality setting via a button below the LCD. That function has been removed in the 1DX. Like all other Canon cameras, mirror lockup has to be accessed via a menu as well. The other small flaw in the handling is that when using the vertical grip, it’s a little too easy to move the shutter speed setting while in manual mode, particularly annoying if you’re using a strobe. Otherwise, this a tank that handles like a BMW.
2. Speed and performance: The 1DX is a blazing fast camera. It can shoot at 12 FPS which is more than enough for sports and wildlife. Aside from the full frame sensor, the autofocus system is the major update in the 1DX, and it is fantastic. Once the camera locks on, it rarely loses focus. It is amazing to see how many shots in a row the camera can take sharply in focus. The camera gives the user 6 presets to choose from, varying the acquisition speed and other variables. The one thing that isn’t perfect about the 1DX’s new focusing system is that it does not always lock on to focus instantaneously. This is particularly true with small items such as ducks flying. The camera failed to lock on even during a few sequences during a basketball game. Overall, however, the performance of the autofocus system, even with a 400 f4 and 1.4 x converter, is truly amazing when compared to the previous models.
3. Image quality: Image quality is typical of Canon sensors. The 1DX takes really sharp and contrasty files. Its one big drawback is dynamic range. Here in snowy Colorado this is something of an issue. Expose for the sky, and the snow is whited out. Expose for the snow, and sky is too dark. This is mostly fixable in RAW processing but can present some issues. I would also say that the 1DX underexposes slightly. Color balance is great.
4. Battery life: At over 2000 shots per charge, battery life is excellent.
5. High ISO: Wow! There is no issue with noise up through ISO 6400. It is great for sports and low light portraits.
6. Comparison to 5DMKIII: The 5D is very comparable is many respects to the 1DX. The focusing system on the 5D seems to acquire focus a little quicker but also loses focus more often. That extra Digic processor is definitely doing something on the 1DX. The 5D has a quieter shutter but isn’t in the same league speed wise. The 1DX gives you more confidence that the shot won’t be missed. I read a post on another site that the 1DX doesn’t offer wildlife shooters any advantages. I would disagree. The ability to shoot 12 FPS and keep focus consistently locked on is a a definite advantage. Image quality is very similar between the two cameras. The 5D is good to about 4000 ISO as opposed to 6400 on the 1DX. The 5D’s jpegs look better to my eye but there is virtually no difference when looking at RAW files. The built-in vertical grip on the 1DX is nice but the extra bulk can be a disadvantage as well. All in all, Canon has developed two really good cameras.
forst crystals cling to a dead grass stalk at the Rocky Mountain Arsenal
Frost clings to trees at St Mary’s Lake at the Rocky Mountain Arsenal in Denver.
Ducks fly over the Platte River in Thornton, Colorado.